There’s nothing quite like the unique smell of dawn in the bush to infuse deep relaxation and a release of stress. We travelled to the indomitable Kruger National Park for a bit of game watching and some serious relaxation.

Travelling overseas, you’re likely to bump into a South African, especially in European countries. But for some reason, South African’s don’t do too much travel within their own boarders or even into Africa; with the exception of a couple of visits to the usual spots like Cape Town, Durbs and perhaps Sun City. There is such a diverse range of incredible beauty, diversity and adventure in SA; it’s time we celebrated the richness found in our own country.

The Kruger Park is a national treasure and is a prime example of something that really is for everyone. It’s also one of the few game farm experiences you can have as a South African that’s not going to kill your bank account. While there are numerous 5-star lodges dotted around the country and indeed in close proximity to the Kruger, many are geared towards tourists with foreign currency. Kruger doesn’t pretend to be a 5-star reserve, but it’s definitely a Big 5 reserve and the plethora of animals won’t disappoint.

SPOT ON
Spotting one of the Big 5 is always a treat; however, it’s unlikely you’ll have the sighting all to yourself. Most visitors to the park are on a mission to spot as many animals as possible, so just about every sighting becomes a bit of a traffic jam. In fact, if you happen to stop on the side of the road for any length of time, you’ll definitely be joined by at least one other car, its passengers straining to see what you’re looking at. Sometimes it’s just a person speaking on their cell phone or consulting a map, with not even a sparrow within spotting distance. Each camp’s reception area has a map, highlighting the last two day’s sightings of the Big 5 and other rare finds such as wild dog, so you can plan each day’s route to follow the latest sightings.

Getting out of your vehicle is a complete no-no, except in a few areas that indicate its okay to venture out, but at your own risk. These places are few and far between, mostly on bridges or hills where you can easily see any encroaching danger. There are a number of picnic spots dotted around the park and these aren’t fenced in, but because of all the activity, the only things you really need to watch out for are cheeky monkeys who are exceptionally adept at stealing food. In true SA style, some of the picnic spots feature chesa nyama stalls, offering exceptionally tasty pap and wors. The picnic spots are very organised as well, and you can rent a gas braai if you’re keen to cook your breakfast.

If you’re not keen on sitting in your car for the better part of the day, there are guided tours, either on foot, by bicycle or in a game viewing vehicle. It must be said, however, that even in high summer, it gets quite cold on those game viewing vehicles, so do remember to layer up.
Animal spotting is really a matter of luck, no matter how keen you are. But, if there’s a dearth of animals to see, the landscape is generally breathtaking, especially the rivers. And even if you’re not a keen birder, you’re sure to see one or two that will intrigue. So, while the Kruger may not be the epitome of luxury from an accommodation perspective, it certainly offers exceptional luxury of wide open spaces and raw beauty.

COMMUNING WITH NATURE, AND PEOPLE
Waking up seriously early is definitely the order of the day, so lolling about in bed isn’t the norm at all. Camp gates open at 5:30 am in summer and 6am in winter, so most guests take advantage of dawn’s light to catch their first sighting of the day. In fact, the camps are all eerily quiet during the morning hours; but that gives the friendly cleaning staff time to work without having to dodge sleepy or hung-over guests.
Monkeys and other foraging animals can be an issue and although they’re wonderfully entertaining to watch, you do need to keep your doors and windows closed and your fridge on lock-down. Most camp accommodation is designed with the kitchen and dining area on the patio, which means your food is all outdoors, albeit in cupboards. Some are lockable, and most camps have cages for the fridge, which you’re advised to use as the monkeys are highly adept at opening fridge doors and seem to have an affinity for yoghurt.

The architecture in the camps is interesting to say the least, most consisting of simple rondavels with a shower and loo ensuite; usually sleeping three to a room. They’re also designed a bit laager style, so there’s not a whole lot of privacy. Waking up in the morning and emerging for your first cup of the day, you’re likely to be faced with another intrepid traveller yawning in their pyjamas. But, there’s something quite magical at night when all the individual fires are lit and the soft sounds of families and friends communing around the braai can be heard. What’s even more fun for South African’s is watching the foreign tourists attempting to braai – all number of interesting methods are seen. There’s a shared community spirit in the camps, with everyone keen to chat and share their day’s sightings.

WHAT TO TAKE
Unless you’re camping, there’s very little equipment you need to take along with you. A small bag with your essential personal items will suffice.
• Food: Most camps have very well-stocked stores. So, if you don’t want to drag all your groceries with you, just about any item you may require can be bought. Not a huge amount of fresh produce is available, however, so bring your own fruits and veg if necessary.
Note: Just about every camp has a restaurant, so if you don’t feel like braaing, you can always eat out – the restaurants generally have great views, so a sun downer on the deck is always a good option. Famous Brands have just taken over the concession, so you’ll need to get used to seeing people eating pizza in the bush – a slight disconnect, but seemingly popular. A slightly less incongruous choice is Mugg & Bean, which offers its full menu so there’s a lot of variety when it comes to food.
• Torch: Naturally, lighting is kept to a minimum, so take a torch along with you
• Camera: Even though there’s plenty of opportunity to buy a professional shot of your favourite animal, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as taking the pic yourself; and catching a marauding honey badger ferreting around in your bin is a bonus.

GETTING THERE
The main camp, Skukuza has an airfield and there are regular flights in and out. Driving is of course a major option, especially as you don’t need to have a 4×4 to travel the main roads. There are a few 4×4 tracks that you can go on, however, if you’re keen for a little more excitement. Many of the towns surrounding the Kruger contain roads that are badly pot-holed, although there does seem to be some movement in improving road conditions along the way.
The Kruger National Park is a highly popular destination, so be sure to book well in advance. There are agencies that take bookings on behalf of the park, but you can also book directly, a method we recommend to ensure you get the rooms you really want. It’s tempting to book in numerous camps so you can travel as much as possible, however, moving every day or every other day does take its toll and there’s no evidence you’re more likely to see anything more interesting in the middle of nowhere than in close proximity to a camp. So, the advice is to book at one or two camps, allowing you to really settle in and enjoy your stay.

EARLY BEGINNINGS
In the late 1800’s farmers and Europeans flocked to the ‘lowveld’ to search for gold. They found an array of animals that were soon fair game to anyone with a bit of guts and a gun. The then president of the Transvaal Republic, Paul Kruger, proposed to protect these animals and created the Sabie Game Reserve. It took a while for his vision to be completely realised, but in July 1902, the first warden, James Stevenson-Hamilton of Jock of the Bushveld fame, was appointed. On 31 May 1926 the National Parks Act was proclaimed and with it the merging of the Sabie and Shingwedzi Game Reserves into the Kruger National Park. The first motorists entered the park in 1927 for a fee of one pound.

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